Winterizing equipment
All ladders, diving boards, and handrails should be removed, cleaned, lubricated, and stored in a cool, dry area. To prevent rust and corrosion, all equipment should also be thoroughly drained, cleaned, lubricated, and stored in a warm, dry place. This includes pumps, filters, heaters, and chemical feeders.
Special care should be taken for parts such as lint pots, baskets, plugs, O-rings, gaskets, valves, and pressure gauges. A good practice service techs should follow is to use an anti-rust lubricant and store any loose parts in sealed bags. Further, creating a checklist and inventory of all the parts and equipment that have been stored certainly comes in handy when it is time to open the pool. Everything should be stored in a secure area safe from vandals, rodents, and insects. It is paramount to keep all equipment free of moisture during the winter.
Pool decks should also be cleaned thoroughly, and all expansion joints and any cracks should be caulked and sealed to prevent damage from freeze-thaw expansion.
Pool lights need to be protected from freezing and deterioration, too. If the lights are less than 457 mm (18 in.) from the water surface, they must be removed from their niche, weighted down, and gently lowered to the bottom of the pool. Ideally, if possible, they should be removed, lubricated, wrapped and stored in a box in a warm, dry storage room. Service techs should take special care if the light is left on the deck. The power must be turned off and (preferably) the breaker switch should be tagged and locked to prevent anyone from turning the light on while it is out of the water. If a light is powered on while it is out of the water, it could lead to an explosion leaving shards of glass throughout the area.
Pools should be covered to protect them from dirt, debris, leaves, or other objects while it is closed. Most winter covers are secured to the deck around the perimeter by spring loaded fasteners. Service techs should inspect and lubricate these fasteners to protect them from corrosion or breakage during the winter. Some covers allow rainwater to pass through into the pool. In this case, the pool should be checked regularly during heavy rainfall to ensure the water level does not rise over the skimmer opening.
Solid covers can collect rainwater on the surface, which could lead to damage and/or pose a drowning hazard for young children who gain unauthorized access. Therefore, a sump pump should be employed to vacate any water accumulation. A good practice to follow is draining all water from the cover within 30 minutes after the cessation of a rainstorm.
A soft close
In milder climates, pool water should still be prepped similar to a hard close. That said, service techs should add a metal sequestering agent and balance the water in accordance with the recommended ranges. Next, the water should be superchlorinated using liquid chlorine for quick oxidation and good residual without increasing calcium or CYA levels. The use of water clarifiers and enzymes in a soft close situation can be quite beneficial as this will help to break down and minimize small micron organic particles. Also, they will act as filter cleaners and aids when the circulation time is shortened for the off season.
Following this, an algaecide should be added and allowed to circulate throughout the system. Then, CYA levels can be tested and adjusted as needed. Finally, service techs should check the phosphate levels and ensure they are capable of being maintained below 500 ppb. When performing a soft close, turn off the heater and allow the water to circulate for a few hours—preferably at night or during a cooler period. In the case of an expected freeze, or during freezing periods, the pump should be allowed to run for 24 hours until temperatures return above freezing. During this period, a service tech should inspect the pool and test the water at least once per month throughout the off season. In cases of extended warm weather, chlorine levels should be checked at least twice per month and adjusted appropriately. An additional dose of algaecide may be necessary during a warm, mild winter.
Covers can help keep debris out of soft close pools as well; however, as these maintenance checks are performed more frequently, they can make them more of a chore. Ideal covers for soft close pools include: automatic or those on a reel, which makes removal and replacement easier. On pools equipped with mesh covers, service techs will need to ensure the proper levels of CYA stabilizer are maintained, while also frequently checking for correct chlorine residual and water balance.
Saltwater generators
When servicing pools equipped with salt chlorine generators located in regions that experience mild climates, techs should set the unit to neutral or winterize. In hard close areas, the generator cells should be removed, cleaned, and stored in a secure, dry area. Techs should also ensure power to the unit is off. The water should be prepped in the same manner as regular pools for metals, chemical balance, algae prevention, and phosphate removal. Further, as discussed earlier, the water should be drained to the levels in accordance with the pool type, and in a manner that abides with municipal bylaws.
Some jurisdictions have strict regulations for draining pools equipped with salt chlorinator generators. In this case, pool water cannot be drained into catch basins (i.e. storm drains). Instead, it is recommended the water be disposed of in one of the following ways:
- draining the water to the wastewater sewer (not the sump pit);
- draining the water onto the client’s lawn; or
- hiring a licensed wastewater hauler to remove the water.
Whether a service tech is performing a hard or soft close, it is important for one to remember that the due diligence taken at closing time will pay off the following spring when they are opening the pool.
