Fibreglass pool installation

by Sally Bouorm | October 1, 2012 8:18 am

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By Paul Kennedy

Installing a fibreglass pool is easy. A pool builder can provide a family with a lifetime of enjoyment and great memories in less than a week and call it a career. Most families who purchase a swimming pool have been dreaming and saving for many years; therefore, the reward of a successful pool installation is shared by both the homeowner as well as the installer.

Education does not always come easy, especially when a process is in its pioneering stage. The fibreglass swimming pool industry has seen tremendous growth in Canada; however, it has not always been applauded for its stellar construction practices.

On several occasions, many homeowners and builders have been heard saying, “So you just dig a hole and plop it in the ground, right?” Unfortunately, when this happens it causes all parties unnecessary grief.

The goal of this article is to provide a fibreglass swimming pool installation process that not only sounds easy to the customer, but also delivers a spectacular end result. However, before discussing the installation process, it is important to address three misnomers often faced by new fibreglass pool representatives.

Addressing the following questions before they are asked is sometimes the most effective way to handle these potential concerns. Having a better understanding of the makeup and design of a fibreglass pool can make a swimming pool builder a better installer.

Question #1: Is it true a fibreglass pool can float and pop out of the ground?

A fibreglass pool is like a sunken ship, if left full of water it will never float. It is true that a fibreglass pool can float; however, the important point to remember is the pool needs to have more water inside than what is around it.

When draining a fibreglass pool, provisions must be taken for the possibility of the property having a high water table. To do so, a 203-mm (8-in.) pipe is typically installed in the deep end so the removal of ground water can be easily achieved and pool draining can be safely accomplished.

Question #2: Is it true a fibreglass pool can break when the water freezes?

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Fibreglass pools are built like big ice cube trays. For example, an ice cube tray purchased from the dollar store does not break because of its strength; it remains intact because of its design. In fact, both products are built with a draft (i.e. the vertical distance between the waterline and the bottom of the pool/tray) and provide the same result when water freezes.

As water freezes, it expands upwards; therefore, it is safe to leave water in a fibreglass pool during the winter. And, once the ice is thick enough, the homeowner can actually skate on the frozen surface.

Question #3: Is it true a fibreglass pool will not withstand the Canadian climate?

Not only can fibreglass withstand Canada’s freeze/thaw cycle, it is one of the best materials for holding liquids in this climate. Fibreglass is not only flexible, it is 17 times stronger than concrete and has no shelf life. There are many fibreglass pools still being used today that have been installed in North America more than 50 years ago, while many in the U.K. and Australia were installed more than 70 years ago.

Most fibreglass pool manufacturers offer a 25- to 35-year structural warranty. If warranty claims were an issue, many of today’s fibreglass pool companies would be out of business as most self-insure their warranty programs. Reputable manufacturers use proven building techniques along with high-quality products and resins, the ‘factory-written warranty,’ although providing comfort to the consumer, is virtually never called upon.

Proper building techniques

Now with these misnomers put to bed, the following eight steps will discuss the basics of installing a fibreglass swimming pool. From site assessment, layout, excavation, and base preparation to craning, setting, backfilling, and plumbing the pool, these step-by-step details will help increase a pool builder’s confidence when entering this quickly growing segment of the pool industry.

Step 1: Assessing the site

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A fibreglass pool is a large item that can span as much as 13.7 m (45 ft). Many dealers have been disappointed at the last minute after discovering the pool is not capable of being craned over the house due to obstructions such as overhead wires, branches (which may need permits to cut), or simply because the driveway will not withstand the crane’s weight. Most crane companies will visit the site free of charge to make sure the appropriate sized crane is used. In some cases, a builder may be able to use two excavators, one at each end of the pool, to walk it into the yard sideways.

Site access is also important when it comes time for excavation. Therefore, it is important to take the space between the houses into consideration when sizing the necessary equipment for excavation and fill removal. That said, one of the most important parts of the sales contract is customer acknowledgement that their neighbour is okay with the builder using their property with the understanding that there will probably be damage to their lawn.

If the neighbour changes their mind after the contract is signed, then it is up to your client to cover the additional costs of using smaller equipment.

Step 2: Laying out the pool

Pool layout is completed by way of a dig sheet, which comprises a formulation of measurements describing a pool’s shape in 3-D. Once the layout is determined, run a string line down the centre where the pool is to be placed and measure off from each side.

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It is a good idea to mark the string line with strips of tape to indicate the measurements beforehand, so when (not if) the orange paint markings disappear, the string line can be easily reinstalled to double-check the excavation. By accurately excavating the pool, it will save time and material costs. Remember to excavate a little larger area in the deep end to accommodate a 203.2-mm (8-in.) pipe for future dewatering.[5]

The final grade of the pool is extremely important. If the builder is not providing landscaping and the customer has not yet secured a landscaper, then it is recommended the pool be installed so the top of the fibreglass is 25.4 mm (1 in.) below the homeowner’s existing patio. This will allow room for a coping stone (which is typically 50.8 to 76.2 mm [2 to 3 in.] thick) to be fastened to the top of the fibreglass lip, while still providing a slight fall away from the pool.

To ensure this is completed properly, it is important to consult with the client on the project’s final grade and place a benchmark that can be easily identified later to eliminate any discrepancies after the pool is installed. Using a laser level will simplify this process significantly.

Step 3: Excavating the pool

For those builders who have their own heavy equipment and the time to operate it, the excavation process can easily become their favourite part of the project.

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For a pool builder new to the business, renting heavy equipment is recommended during the first year for two reasons: the ability to try different sizes and models, which will assist in the selection of the right equipment, and the winter will go by much faster when monthly payments are not required.

When pricing a project, remember to include the cost of dump sites as some (e.g. Toronto) can be as much as $80 per load, no matter the truck size.

When excavating the site, dig approximately 76.2 mm (4 in.) deeper to accommodate the base of the pool. Another advantage to installing fibreglass pools is during the spring when the ground is typically wet, water can be drawn out of the deep end via the dewatering pipe while working on a dry-solid base when using high performance bedding (HPB). This bedding comprises small washed stones approximately 6.35 to 8.5 mm (0.25 to 0.365 in.) in size.

Step 4: Setting the base

Setting the base is the most important part of a fibreglass pool installation. The excavation can be close, but the base needs to be perfect. One way to achieve the perfect base is to use a rail system.

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To do this, build two long rails using 2x4s and lay one on each side of the excavation. Then, fasten the rails to vertical 2×2 stakes, and as per the dig sheet specifications, tap them into position while using the laser level to ensure accuracy. Finally, level off the HPB screening between the rails using another 2×4.[8]

HPB is a must; not only for a better job, but also because it is much easier than using sand or limestone screening and provides up to 98 per cent compaction without having to use a plate tamper. HPB will not compact or settle, even when pressure is applied to the base. Further, when using sand or other screenings, the backfill needs to be washed to assist in the compaction of the material, which is not the case when using HPB.

Finally, another benefit to using HPB is that water can travel through the stone without disrupting the base. This is an obvious advantage if and when the need arises to remove water from underneath the pool in the event it needs to be completely drained.

Step 5: Craning the pool

When it comes time to crane the pool over the house, in most cases, it is always a good idea to use one crane-size up from what is required to avoid having to use the homeowner’s driveway. Trying to save money by using a smaller crane can sometimes cause driveway damage as most are not built to accommodate heavy equipment.

Even though the client has signed a waiver, making them responsible for any damage, the builder will unlikely be able to repair the damage caused to the relationship once the client discovers their driveway can be used as a skateboard park.

Step 6: Setting the pool

Once the pool has been lowered into the excavation area, it should be pretty close to being level. However, should minor adjustments be necessary, they can be made easily by using a few strategically positioned 4×4 pressure-treated posts.

Fibreglass pools traditionally come equipped with built in steps and seating areas that tend to require initial support during the backfilling process. Before placing these supporting posts with the use of a small bottle jack (i.e. hydraulic jack) and of course the laser level, be sure to add at least 0.3 to 0.6 m (1 to 2 ft) of water into the pool to prevent it from moving during the final tweaking.

Once satisfied the pool is perfectly level, proceed with backfilling. As an aside, always remember, once the pool is filled with water, the laser level is no longer required to verify the pool was installed correctly as water does not lie and the pool will not level itself out once it is filled.

Step 7: Backfilling

Once again, HPB simplifies the backfill process. Simultaneously fill the pool with water while backfilling, thus providing equal pressure on the pool walls from both sides. Attention is required when filling under the pool’s stairs and seating areas. This can be a tedious process; however, it can be accomplished by using a short 2×4 and simply jamming HPB as tightly as possible to fill all the voids. The pool should be backfilled to approximately 0.6 m (2 ft) from the top to accommodate the installation of returns, lights, therapy jets, and skimmer.

Step 8: Plumbing the pool

Although plumbing the pool is not difficult, the task is not for those who do not pay attention to detail. There are few things worse in this business than discovering a leak after the deck and landscaping have been completed. Therefore, always smooth the backside of the pool with a grinder where the skimmer is positioned. This, along with a top-quality 100 per cent silicone caulking will provide an excellent seal.

Using gaskets for the skimmer installation is also recommended. The backside of the skimmer is strong but narrow and without a gasket it may tend to leak slightly. Most gaskets are universal and will fit most manufacturers’ skimmers. It is also a good idea to silicone inside the skimmer face for an extra seal. When fitting the skimmer, always notch out the top lip of the fibreglass coping so it can sit high in the pool.

For fibreglass pools with bench areas, therapy jets are a nice addition. To install these jets, take a separate airline back to the equipment area as the single-operation controls that sometimes get installed in the deck, will generally become inoperative. Single-operation controls (if used) protrude out of the high-traffic deck area, which can eventually become plugged or broken. The therapy jet housings have pre-drilled holes in the top to accommodate single operation controls. Therefore, if bypassing these controls and installing a separate airline as suggested above, be sure to glue the provided polyvinyl chloride (PVC) plugs into the top of the body housing as water will leak through these holes if not properly secured.

There are also several lighting options for fibreglass pools. To make bulb replacement and winterization easy, select a light style that is sealed at the back of the pool. For builders who do not like to cut holes into the fibreglass pool or do not like the plumbing aspect of an installation, some fibreglass pool manufacturers will provide this service. In some cases, the pool can be delivered with the holes already pre-cut or even with a fully pre-plumbed equipment pad.

In terms of main drain installation, this is not recommended for two reasons. The first being safety as many instances have been reported where children have had their hair caught, and secondly, water could be mistakenly sucked out the bottom of the pool, causing unnecessary damage from hydrostatic pressure (the force that water exerts on a structure). As discussed earlier, this pressure becomes equalized by the water inside the pool and is only a concern when the pool is emptied without dewatering the underside. In the event a pool is drained, and a high-water table exists, the pool will want to float, causing damage to either the pool coping and/or the fibreglass shell.

Some dealers/builders will argue the pool will not realize proper heat circulation without a main drain. Should heat circulation in a pool without a main be inadequate, it can be resolved by attaching an entry-level vacuum to the skimmer suction to act as a ‘roving main drain.’

Most fibreglass pool models have deep ends between 1.5 to 1.8 m (5 to 6 ft). The lack of heat circulation does not seem to be an issue at these depths; however, to accommodate a diving board, some fibreglass pools are 2.4 m (8 ft) deep and these models achieve better heat circulation via a roving main drain.

Once the pool is plumbed and the remaining 0.6 m (2 ft) of backfill is completed, the pool is swim-ready. This is unique to fibreglass pools as a family can enjoy the pool without the immediate additional expense of landscaping. Landscaping is for another discussion; however, it is important to point out that a concrete collar is vital to a successful landscape project.

Many pool builders have discovered that installing a fibreglass pool to the point where it is ‘swim-ready’ is a rewarding and profitable business model.

No need to reinvent the wheel

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No one likes to delay the construction process. Depending on access, a proper fibreglass pool installation should take no more than three to five days. For builders who are contemplating the addition of fibreglass pools to their existing business, or those whose next pool install will be their first fibreglass pool installation, the industry is starving for quality installers. Just remember, there is no need to reinvent the wheel. A tried and proven technique already exists and training is readily available.

 

 

 

 

Paul Kennedy represents the Canadian division of Leisure Pools^® manufacturing, a large supplier of fibreglass pools based in Australia. He also manages a fibreglass swimming pool distribution yard, which supplies Eastern Canada. Kennedy has been involved in the fibreglass pool industry for the past 12 years and has travelled throughout North America training deales on how to sell and properly install fibreglass pools. He can be reached via e-mail at paul@leisurepoolscanada.com[10].

Source URL: https://www.poolspamarketing.com/trade/fibreglass-pool-installation/

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