On the edge
In any pond, the most defining part of the design is edging. This single detail will determine if a pond is formal or naturalistic, ugly or beautiful. It is here that designers and homeowners should direct the majority of their budget. Historically, the magnificent geometrical shaped ponds found in palaces, villas and gardens had one thing in common—the stone edges were precisely level with the water brimming. It is essential the perimeter be level wherever hard architectural exposed edging is used. Designers also need to resist the temptation to indulge in more than three types of edge around any given pond. This is, after all, a person’s backyard, not a garden centre exhibit.
Of course, one may use just planted edges, particularly for a natural pond. More likely, this would be part marginal planting and part rock. The edge might be composed of planting, rock and sandy beach. Another combination could be planting, stone and timber decking. Attractive edging details used quite frequently is planting, timber decking and lawn to the water’s edge. One is fine, but never use more than three.
Creating attractive edges with liner ponds is not difficult to achieve if one thinks of the liner as merely a waterproof bowl into which the contents are placed. Designers should build all block work, rock work, stepping stones and soil beds within the liner. This way, the edge of the liner will be completely hidden. I like to form a hard edge around the entire pond, even though it may ultimately appear as a ‘soft edge,’ after being overlaid with soil for planting. This ensures a precise level rim that cannot be trodden down. In addition, designers must always remember the water is only as high as the lowest point in the liner.
Streams and waterfalls
The basic principals of pond design also apply to streams, which are essentially elongated ponds, and waterfalls, which also need to be constructed within the waterproof membrane. Rocks for streams and waterfalls need to be treated with great sensitivity. If one wants to build a waterfall that appears natural, there can be no hint of artificiality, such as exposed liner or concrete. Rock selection should be thorough and specific to the job at hand. One shouldn’t skimp, either. A few large rocks are more convincing than lots of little ones and they tend to go in quicker and cover a lot more space.
To construct a series of pools and waterfalls that truly resemble nature, one has to spend time in the wild studying the real thing, observing how water exposes the strata over which it passes and leaves the surrounds partially vegetated. Designers should not use too much rock on either side of a waterfall. There should be obvious ‘cheeks,’ which keep the water on course and outcroppings as needed, but not an excess of bare stone. In a waterfall setting, the water is, in essence, in conflict with the surrounding rock. The flow is thrust in all directions, while beautiful fans, sprays and chutes are produced. These are elements a good designer can recreate in the backyard.
In nature, streams generally begin as gentle trickles in high valleys, gradually increasing in volume as they flow downhill. The source is being joined by springs, side streams and tributaries, all of which combine to swell the flow. While this can be mimicked in a water feature, the designer needs to plan the source with considerable care. When I am called in to consult on a stream project, much of my time is spent finding a clever way for water to emerge.
