Spring opening tips and conversion advice for saltwater pools

by Sally Bouorm | April 1, 2012 11:10 am

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By Bob Harper

Spring is here, which means opening season for swimming pools is just around the corner. The proper spring startup sets the tone for the entire season. For saltwater pools, spring startup is even more critical if problems such as chlorine (Cl) demand, algae, staining and scale were experienced during the prior season and not dealt with adequately.

The opening process typically involves removing the cover, filling the pool to its optimum level, getting equipment operational, initiating water circulation, shocking and balancing the water and performing some housekeeping chores.

Basic opening procedures

While saltwater pools have unique water chemistry parameters and use specialized equipment compared to traditional pools, the process for opening them is relatively the same, with a few key exceptions:

1. Remove any debris and standing water from the top of the cover (if a solid type). Use a leaf net to keep any solid matter out of the pool and pump water off and away from the pool before removing the cover. Mesh safety covers are much easier as they are simply removed and stored.
2. Remove any debris from the pool, brush the pool and adjust the water level to about halfway up the skimmer face.
3. Remove all plugs and replace the return fittings.
4. Check the pump and filter to make sure they are working properly and turn on the equipment.
5. For saltwater pools, put the electrolytic chlorine generator (ECG) back in place, but do not turn it on until the last step. (Many models with built-in temperature sensors are programmed to turn off or run partially when water temperatures drop below a certain point, generally between 10 to 15 C (50 to 59 F). Therefore, it is important to make sure the water’s temperature is warm enough for the ECG to operate.
6. Run the pump for at least 24 hours to circulate the water thoroughly. This will help filter out any remaining debris in the pool, as well as help to clear hazy water. During the winter, chemicals can stratify or concentrate in deeper water; therefore, in order to obtain a true reading it is important the water is thoroughly circulated prior to pulling a water sample for testing.

New shocking recommendations

Shocking traditional pools with chlorine is standard practice; however, it is now also a relatively new recommendation for saltwater pools. During the season, as long as the pump is running, the ECG will produce a constant amount of chlorine, so shocking the pool is not typically necessary. However, since the ECG has a fixed chlorine output, it may not produce enough chlorine initially to overcome the demand created by organic material in the pool at spring opening. Therefore, a supplemental chlorine product should be used to help overcome any initial chlorine demand.

Levels of cyanuric acid (CYA, [CNOH]³) can help determine which chlorine product to use. If CYA is low, use dichlor (C[O]NCl)₂(C[O]NH). If CYA is adequate or high, use an unstabilized chlorine such as bleach, calcium hypochlorite (Ca(ClO)₂) or lithium hypochlorinte (LiClO).

After the water has been shocked, saltwater pools should be given a dose of treatment products to protect against scaling, staining and corrosion. Be sure to only use products specifically designed for saltwater pools, as they will hold up against the extreme conditions within the ECG.

Ready to test

At this stage, both traditional and saltwater pools are ready for water testing and balancing. To do this, take an elbow-deep water sample from an area in the pool away from the return lines. Test for and adjust total alkalinity (TA), calcium hardness, CYA, and pH as required to properly balance the water.

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Saltwater pools will require one additional step, which involves testing the water for salt levels. Maintaining an appropriate salt level is critical for the ECG to function properly; therefore, it is important to make sure salt levels are adjusted to fall within the recommended range provided by the ECG manufacturer (typically between 3,000 and 4,000 parts per million [ppm]). This test is usually performed using test strips or an electronic meter. If using a meter, make sure the water temperature is at least 15 C (59 F) or higher.

Once the water is balanced and salt levels are in the proper range, run the ECG on its highest level of chlorine output for at least 24 hours to establish between one and four parts per million of free chlorine. Then, decrease the output or pump runtime according to the manufacturer’s instructions to maintain the proper chlorine level throughout the season.

TIPS FOR MAINTAINING WATER BALANCE

[3] Once saltwater pools are ready for the season, maintaining balanced water is one of the keys to a great swimming experience, all season long. Balanced water simply means pool water chemicals and minerals are within their target ranges for optimum performance, as follows: • 7.2 to 7.8 pH; • 80 to 120 parts per million (ppm) total alkalinity (TA); • 200 to 450 ppm calcium hardness; • 50 to 80 ppm cynauric acid (CYA, [CNOH]3); • 1 to 4 ppm chlorine (Cl); and • 3,000 to 4,000 ppm salinity (follow manufacturer recommendations).     The importance of pH Of the various factors influencing water balance, pH is the most important. It affects water quality, swimmer comfort, pool finishes and equipment, and even the efficacy of chlorine itself. In saltwater pools, the electrolytic process, which generates chlorine from salt molecules, drives pH up, and a pool with high pH can encounter several problems, such as cloudy water, scale formation and staining. High pH also lowers the efficacy of chlorine as a sanitizer. First balance total alkalinity The basic rule of thumb is to balance total alkalinity first, followed by pH, then calcium hardness. The correct levels of calcium (Ca) depend on the average water temperature. The colder the water, the higher the recommended calcium level, and conversely, the warmer the average water temperature, the lower the acceptable level of calcium. To raise total alkalinity, add sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3), and to decrease levels, add muriatic (hydrochloric) acid (HCl). By keeping levels within the accepted range, it acts like a shock absorber, tempering the effects of pH swings and helping to stabilize the pool. Adjusting the pH will also be required less often and becomes easier to manage. When decreasing total alkalinity levels, it may be tempting to use sodium bisulfate (NaHSO4) or dry acid (an easier-to-handle form of acid); however, this is not recommended for saltwater pools as sulfates (SO2−4) can increase the formation of difficult-to-remove scale. Muriatic acid, while not a friendly chemical to handle, is a better solution. Last, but not least Another important tip for maintaining water balance is to not overproduce chlorine. Doing so will cause the electrolytic chlorine generator (ECG) to produce more sodium hydroxide (NaOH) as a byproduct of the electrolytic process, which in turn increases pH levels and shortens the ECG’s life. To avoid this, aim for the lower end of the range, especially if the pool is not heavily used.

Making the switch to salt

For customers who have been contemplating a conversion to a saltwater sanitization system, spring is the best time to make the switch. Pool water is typically diluted at startup, with fewer traditional chemicals, so it is easier to create a balanced saltwater pool. If a pool needs to be partially drained for a repair, or if a liner needs to be replaced, it can be cost effective to convert at the same time. The general idea is for customers to get a full season of saltwater swimming by converting in the spring.

How can pool owners determine whether they will be happier with a saltwater pool?

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The low saline water in salt pools—about one-tenth the salinity of ocean water—feels softer and more soothing to a bather’s eyes, nose and skin. If customers are sensitive to traditional pool chemicals, they may prefer saltwater.

Saltwater pools can also require less maintenance, so they can be ideal for frequent travellers. The ECG constantly converts saltwater to chlorine, so there is no need to routinely purchase, transport, store, handle and add chlorine. It also keeps the levels of chlorine more consistent, so there are fewer peaks and valleys when algae typically gain a foothold.

If a customer decides to convert their pool to saltwater sanitation, here are a few things to keep in mind:

1. The ECG should be selected according to pool size and bather load, rather than pool size alone. For example, if a customer has a 75,700-L (20,000-gal) pool that is heavily used during the season, an ECG sized according to a 133,500- to 141,400-L (30,000- to 40,000-gal) pool may be needed. This will ensure sufficient chlorine production for the actual usage. Keep in mind, the ECG should be installed according to manufacturer instructions, ensuring it is properly ground and bonded.
2. Add treatment products to protect the pool against staining and scale, but make sure these products are specifically designed for saltwater pools. The interior of the ECG has extreme pH ranges (up to 14 on the cathode and as low as one on the anode), high chlorine levels (exceeding 50 ppm) and relatively high temperatures, which can exceed 49 C (120 F). In these harsh conditions, many conventional pool water chemicals designed to prevent staining, scaling and corrosion break down into compounds like orthophosphates, which are nutrients for algae and contribute to scale formation. The products used in saltwater pools need to work within the harsh conditions of the ECG and should not contain ingredients like sulfates (SO²⁻₄) or phosphorous-based sequestrants, which can contribute to scale formation on cell plates.
3. Use high-quality salt (as pure as possible). All salts are not created equally. Depending on its type, salt may contain naturally-occurring contaminants that can damage a pool. Some salts contain organic contaminants, which can cause cloudy water and increase chlorine demand, while other types may contain varying amounts of inorganic contaminants, such as manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), iron (Fe), nitrates (NO⁻₃), silicates (SiO₄⁴⁻), sulfates, calcium (Ca) and metals. Many of these contaminants can affect water clarity, dissolution rate, stain and scale potential and other important water balance factors.
4. Use salt specifically designed for pool water sanitation and check with suppliers to confirm the source of the type of salt being purchased. Mechanically evaporated salt is best for saltwater pools. Solar salt can cause increased chlorine demand due to organic contaminants, while mined rock salt should never be used as it contains impurities at higher levels than accepted.
5. When adding salt, use enough to reach the midpoint of the range recommended by the ECG manufacturer. It is better to add too little salt than too much, as more salt can always be added if needed. If too much salt is added, the pool will need to be partially drained and fresh water added to dilute the salt level. Always add salt to the pool’s deep end, while the pump is running, and brush until dissolved.

Customer advice

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Whether customers own an existing saltwater pool or recently converted, it is important to teach them to test and balance their pool water regularly. Saltwater pools require less maintenance than traditional pools, but they are not maintenance-free.

For residential pools, it is recommended pH and chlorine levels are tested weekly, while total alkalinity, calcium hardness, stabilizer/CYA and metals (especially if they occur in the water source) are tested monthly. Salinity can also be tested monthly to ensure it is maintained at the required level.

Proper opening techniques in the spring, followed by proper maintenance throughout the season, will help ensure problem-free pools and happy customers.

 

 

 

Bob Harper is general manager of pool products at Pristiva, a Compass Minerals company. He has more than 25 years of experience in the pool and spa industry and is an expert in saltwater pool systems. He can be reached via e-mail at harperb@pristiva.net[6].

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