The method in the madness of fibreglass pool installations

by Sally Bouorm | August 1, 2013 12:30 pm

[1]

By Bill Reynolds

One aspect of fibreglass swimming pools, which makes them particularly attractive to consumers and builders alike, is their ability to be installed relatively quickly in comparison to other types of inground pools. Keep in mind; however, quick is a relative term as the time it takes to safely and properly install a fibreglass pool will depend on the project site, builder experience, as well as the available resources and workforce. Cutting corners can result in poor installation, and in some cases, even a damaged pool, which may need to be replaced.

The following are some general fibreglass pool installation basics, along with various dos and don’ts, starting with how to interact with the homeowner when planning the project. In addition to these step-by-step instructions, carefully adhering to the installation instructions provided by the fibreglass pool manufacturer is strongly advised.

Customer introduction and site evaluation

Before scheduling an appointment to visit the client’s home to review the project, ideally they should have already reviewed a brochure and pricelist, and selected a number of preferred shapes. By doing so, it assists with the preparation of the swimming pool presentation by having the appropriate templates on hand.

Upon arriving at the client’s home, ask to see the area where the pool will be installed to perform a quick initial site evaluation. This is simply a preliminary inspection to identify areas that might create some challenges or possibly increase installation costs. During the inspection, check for things that create problems for crane and/or equipment access, material storage, fencing, and utility locations. Grade is also a key issue. Pools and decks are normally constructed on level ground; therefore, extreme variations in grade will need to be resolved before excavation begins.

If no insurmountable problems are identified, now is the time to interact with the client to identify their vision for the project, e.g. pool size and shape, inclusion of water features, decking options, accessories, etc.

After confirming the customer’s wish list, a full property evaluation should be completed to make sure the site will accommodate their requests as well as to determine cost. When performing this task, the following should be considered:

• Space for excavation equipment, crane, pool trailer, and concrete trucks;
• Building and fencing codes;
• Grade issues;
• Existing structures;
• Location of pool equipment;
• Getting the required utilities to the equipment pad; and
• Locating underground water, gas, power, and sewer lines (check with local authorities), and overhead power lines.

Drainage is another issue; therefore, underground water conditions should be investigated. Gutters, downspouts, rain accumulation, and general runoff (i.e. water that does not soak into the soil) from the property should be checked as well. Always remember, runoff must flow away from the pool. To ensure this happens, additional drainage on the property (e.g. deck drains, retaining walls) may need to be considered. Another option may be tying into the existing patio, while maintaining the proper pool elevation and concrete slope for proper deck drainage.

Finally, prior to construction, check the surrounding foliage to identify the need for any tree, bush, and/or shrub removal and view area from the residence to make certain the pool can be seen from inside the home for safety and esthetic purposes. Then, take all measurements for drawings.

Completing the contract

Once all additional costs, if any, have been identified, the contract can be completed. At this stage, make the client aware of any unknown factors (e.g. hitting rock during the excavation), which may incur additional costs. Further, provide them with an accurate start and completion date and make them aware of any unforeseen circumstances (e.g. weather), which may alter these dates.

It is also a good idea to provide the client with a work schedule. Never over promise—the more complete and accurate the information is, the better their expectations can be met and the more satisfied they are likely to be with the project. Once the contract is signed, draw the plans and submit them for permitting.

Layout, excavation, and preparation

The first step is laying out the project by spray painting an outline of the pool and plumbing ditches on the ground where it will be installed. If a pool template is used, lay it out and spray paint around it.

[2]

[3]

When excavating, the pool coping, which is usually 152 to 304 mm (6 to 12 in.), should also be taken into account. The excavation should be very close to the actual pool size; however, caution against over digging the pool is extremely important to prevent the need for additional labour and building materials. Over-digging the pool floor by 76 to 101 mm (3  to 4 in.) and the walls by 152 mm (6 in.) is recommended. Should an over-dig be extreme, never use excavated material as fill as it will settle. Installation of a permanent sump line is also recommended as a precautionary measure on all fibreglass pool installations as site conditions can change over time.

With the dig complete, proper preparation of the bottom of the excavation is critical. This is the foundation of the project and, therefore, it must be compacted properly and free of undulations.

To do this, install screed rails using stakes to create a guide for making a true level surface. Adjust the rails to the proper height, and then evenly spread a layer of recommended compaction material (e.g. sand or gravel) over the bottom of the excavation. Using water, compact the material and screed the floor flat, filling any low spots in the process. This procedure should be repeated several times. If sand or engineered fill is used, the completed area will resemble a slab of finished concrete.

The pool will conform to the foundation once water is added as long as the bottom of the excavation is prepared correctly. Therefore, it is important to know the pool’s finished and set grades, its precise excavation depth along with the depth of the recommended compaction material. When measuring these parameters, a transit (i.e. builder’s level) should be used.

Setting the pool in place

To set and level the pool in the excavation, use a transit and the predetermined grade for the top of the pool. A crane or excavator is then used to lower the pool into the excavation. At the same time the pool is being lowered into place, check to make sure the offsets are accurate to the project plans.

Next, mark the outside of the dig to serve as a guide to ensure that each time the pool is lifted and reset, as many times as necessary to achieve a ‘good fit,’ the pool is setting in the same place each time. Once the pool is set in the excavation, release all tension from the crane.

[4]

Then, walk along the entire pool floor to check for any voids or hang-ups. Using the transit, take readings from six different points of the pool—the four lifting points, along with the middle of the shallow and deep ends. If the pool is off by more than 13 mm (0.5 in.), remove the pool from the excavation and look at the imprint of the pool radius in the compacted floor.

If adjustments to the foundation are necessary, use a landscape rake. Also, when adding or removing compaction material, make sure to compact and feather the material to maintain a flat foundation. Investing a little more time at this juncture is worth it. The more care that is taken to set the pool properly, fewer adjustments will be required during the backfill process.

The backfill process

[5]

‘Locking in’ is the process of placing and tamping backfill around the radius of the pool to hold it firmly in place during installation. To begin this process, add 101 to 152 mm (4 to 6 in.) of water to the pool. At the same time, add 101 to 152 mm (4 to 6 in.) of compaction material to the pool’s deep end, following the water level in the pool. With the weight of the water holding the floor in position, work in a horseshoe pattern, taking transit readings up to the pool’s water level as well as 1.8 to 2.4 m (6 to 8 ft) beyond the water level. Any adjustments that need to be made at this point should be less than 13 mm (0.5 in.).

When the backfill is in place, wet it and use a lever assembly under the pool’s coping to make any minor adjustments, and compact the radius. Then, proceed with 152-mm (6-in.) lifts of backfill, again, working in a horseshoe pattern and following the water level in the pool until it is ‘locked in.’ It is imperative this process is not rushed as filling the pool with water too fast, or using an overabundance of backfill too quickly, can force the pool out of level. During this stage of the installation there is no such thing as taking too many transit readings as it is important to continuously check ‘locked in’ sections of the pool for any movement, while also checking for any adjustments that still need to be made.

Prior to installing the pool in the excavation, run the plumbing for the main drains up to return height. As backfill is compacted around the radius, leave the area around the drains open to allow visual inspections to be made for leaks once the water level covers the drain. After inspection, be cautious when compacting around the drains as damaging them could potentially cause a leak. Taking the proper amount of time to complete this process and making the correct minor adjustments is critical at this stage as a poorly or over-packed radius will cause the elevation of the pool to shift. Therefore, consistently monitoring the level with the transit will keep the installation on track.

Special attention with regards to minor adjustments and proper compaction of backfill around steps and swim outs is also critical as these areas have a tendency to droop. Before making any adjustments to these areas, make sure there is at least a couple of inches of water in the pool’s shallow end as this will keep the pool in position. Once all radiuses have been compacted, and the pool is ‘locked in,’ the flow of fill water can be increased and backfill material can be added in 152-mm (6-in.) lifts, following the water level in the pool, wetting and compacting as the installation proceeds.

Pressure test the plumbing

[6]

When the water is just below the return fitting, stop the backfill process and install the plumbing lines. Run the lines along the excavation cavity and route them to the equipment pad. To prevent accidental draining of the pool, place the equipment at, or slightly above, the elevation of the pool, and plumb the lines so the water leaves the pool via the skimmer and not the main drain.

Then, pressure test as necessary. If a pressure test is not required, fill the remainder of the pool and finish the backfill process, being careful not to cover any plumbing joints that have been glued together to allow visual inspections for leaks. At this point, the pool can be backfilled to grade and prepped for concrete.

Pouring concrete

Cantilever decking is recommended for fibreglass pools; however, before pouring concrete, forms need to be setup around the pool perimeter first. Once the form is in place, pour concrete under and over the coping (0.3m [1 ft] beam around the pool). Keep in mind; however, these requirements will change when installing concrete in expansive soil, so be sure to follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Project clean up and homeowner training

After the deck is in place and the concrete has cured, cleanup the pool and the job site as soon as possible. The pool is now safely and properly installed; however, the project is not finished. Now, time must be taken to educate the client about the critical aspects of owning a fibreglass swimming pool.

First, a fibreglass pool is designed to be kept full at all times. The pool shell can become damaged if the water level is allowed to drop below the skimmer. The pool should not be allowed to overflow either. If heavy water drainage is allowed to overrun the deck, the shell can become damaged or even separate from the concrete. For proper maintenance, the water level should be kept in the middle of the skimmer at all times.

Most importantly, with all pools, is safety. The first rule is that children should never be allowed in or near the pool without adult supervision. Every pool should be surrounded by a locked-and-gated fence as per local building and safety codes and in conjunction with Pool & Hot Tub Council of Canada (PHTCC) and Association of Pool & Spa Professionals (APSP) guidelines.

Remember, the goal is a happy and satisfied client who not only enjoys their pool, but also provides referrals to their friends and family.

 

 

Bill Reynolds is the director of operations for Latham Pool Product’s fibreglass pools division. In 1998, he joined Viking Fibreglass Pools, which was acquired by Latham in 2005, and served as the manager of its Midland, Texas, manufacturing and pool construction operation for 12 years. In this role, Reynolds supervised more than 500 fibreglass swimming pool installations. He can be reached via billreynolds@lathampools.com[7].

Source URL: https://www.poolspamarketing.com/trade/the-method-in-the-madness-of-fibreglass-pool-installations/

---